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Kenya 2007

Route

• Days: 38
• Period: July
• Weather: In July it is winter in Kenya. In some place is can be cold. In Nairobi it was only 16 degrees during the day. In Nakuru area we had a lot of rain, despite the fact that rainy season was over. Around Mombasa we had one week of real summer, warm and dry and also in the Rift Valley around Naivasha the weather was warmer than elswhere.

General information:

• Currency:  Kenyan Shilling (KSH)

• Internet: Widely available throughout the country

• ATM's: In almost every town there is an ATM for Visa. ATM's for Cirrus and Maestro are less common.

• Creditcards: Creditcards are accepted but not used a lot. At some fuel stations we paid with Visa. Entrance fees for National parks cannot be paid with creditcard.

• Safety: Kenya rebels can be active, so it is always wise to check with locals if you will travel to places like Moyale, around Lake Turkana, around Lamu and around Mount Elgon. During our trip Kenya we did not experience any unsafe situation. Also Nairobi, which has the name, was not that bad. In fact, we liked the city and felt safe driving around. We did however took precautions and did not go downtown and did not drive at night.

Prices (per July 2007)

• Value Money: €1 = between 86-90 KES

• Fuel:  Between 64 KES (Mombasa area) and 72 KES (Nairobi)

• Camping: Between 200 and 500 Shilling per person per night. Camping in the National Parks was more expensive. Hells Gate NP 5 US$ / Nakuru NP 10 US$ / Masai Mara 15 US$ (all prices per person per night).

Visa

• We got it in Khartoum. 50 US$ per person and issues within one hour. It seems you can also get it on the border, but when entering through Illeret you need it in advance. For GPS data of Kenyan embassy in Khartoum see Info Sudan.

• Visa is a single entry visa. However as Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania form a Union you can travel between these countries without having to buy a new visa. Only when you exit to another country your single entry expires.

• Standard your visa is valid for one month, but if at the immigration you immediately request a 3 months visa the change it to 3 months when stamping your passport. This can be handy if you want to circle between Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania.

Border crossing

• ENTRY: We've entered Kenya north of Sibiloi NP close to Illeret coming from the Omo Valley in the south of Ethiopia. Here there is no official border post so no immigration or customs. Do not bother to go to the police station in Illeret, because they will not stamp your passport. When you enter through Illeret you must register yourself at the immigration in Nairobi (see waypoints). In this case you must have you visa in advance. The immigration in Nairobi is very easy. They do not ask much and just stamp your passport on the date wished. To have your Carnet stamped you must go to the customs in Nairobi (see waypoints). The customs in town might send you to the airport to clear you Carnet. They tried the same with us, but we just refused. If you have a visa  there are no further costs (no tax or duties)

• EXIT: We left Kenya at Busia (border with Uganda). Formalities easy done and no costs.

Highlights or not

• Driving from Illeret to Maralal: No costs. The best drive of the whole trip so far. This area is very remote but beautiful.

• Sibiloi NP:  20 US$ per person and 300 KES for the car per day. Most of the wildlife has been poached so do no go here specially, but coming from Ethiopia it might be worth it. Although not much wildlife the surroundings are very nice and at the campsite you can swim in Lake Turkana.

• Thompson Falls: No entry fee. Nice falls but not very special. As it is for free is it however nice to stop here when you are in the area.

• Tiwi Beach: Nice place to chill on the beach. Fresh fruit, vegetables and fish brought to your tent every day. This is paradise and there are no other costs except for camping.

• Hells Gate NP: 20 US$ per person and 300 KES for the car per day. Small park and as there are no large predators the only park where you can walk or cycle. Outside rainy season you can do a great hike through the gorge at the southern end of the park. We really liked this walk and it is for free. As the path is difficult to find a guide is a good idea.

• Nakuru NP: 40 US$ per person and 300 KES for the car per day. Small park with a lot of animals. You will definitely see buffalo and black and white rhino here. Especially nice is the lake with thousands of flamingos.

• Masai Mara NP: 40 US$ per person and 800 KES for the car per day. For us this was the best park. We saw many wildlife and a lot of big cats. If your timing is right and your are lucky you might witness the crossing of the Mara river by big herds of zebras or wildebeasts. This crossing is part of the famous migration between the Serengeti and the Masai Mara. Within the park we liked the Mara Triangle and the part at the below the river. The East side of the river (area called Rhino Hill) was pretty empty and not very interesting at the time we were there.

• Chalbi dessert: Free. Very nice area for driving and bush camping.

Tips

• In Busia, just before the border with Uganda you can get diesel or petrol

• Fuel and groceries are slightly cheaper in Kenya than in Uganda

• Third party insurances are cheap and easy to get in Kenya (see waypoints). For a little extra you can extend you insurance with Comesa and use it in most other African countries still to come. We paid about 9200 Shilling for 5 months.

Roads (July 2007)

• Omorate - Koobi Fora in Sibiloi NP (only 4x4): One whole day of rough tracks

• Sibiloi NP - Loyangalani (only 4x4): One whole day driving on rough track with a lot of big stones.

• Loyangalani - Maralal (only 4x4): The road is long and the track rough. We did not manage this is one day. It took us about 1,5 day.

• Maralal - Nyahururu: Most of the road is rough track. The last part is tarmac.

• Nyahururu - Nairobi: tarmac

• Nairobi - Voi: very bad tarmac

• Voi - Tiwi Beach: Tarmac, about 4 hours

• Nairobi - Nakuru: Tarmac with very bad sections

• Nakuru - Narok (only 4x4): The C57 is a dirt track and only to do when it is dry. Do not try this road in rainy season.

• Nairobi - Naivasha: tarmac

• Naivasha - Narok: tarmac with a lot of big potholes

• Narok - Sekenani Gate Masai Mara: bad tarmac and the last part is piste

• Masai Mara: In the park there are only tracks, but they are OK.

• Musiara Gate (Masai Mara) - Ngorengore (only 4x4): A very long drive and the first part is very rough. When it rains it is very slippery.

• Ngorengore - Sotik: after 12 kilometers the tarmac starts.

• Sotik - Kericho - Kisumu: Tarmac. After Kericho it is more potholes than tarmac.

• Kisumu - Busia: Good tarmac

Important addresses

Links

www.kws.org - prices and information about the wildlife parks

Holidays

GPS-waypoints

Grid: Lat/Lon hddd°mm.mmm"